Comments on: Moskva 5 Tips

By: whiplock

whiplock — Thu, 16 Jun 2011 23:07:50 +0000

Hyperfocal is a calculation of the ideal focal setting for the lens and film format based upon a different ideal then what is shown on the lens itself. In truth, hyperfocal is largely based upon the aperture used on that lens, and format to get the most in focus. True the distance scale on the lens is helpful, but hyperfocal allows the most DOF in focus for a given aperture, somehting that’s not shown on the lens front.

By: emgenov

emgenov — Thu, 13 Jan 2011 08:29:47 +0000

http://www.butkus.org/chinon/moskva_2_4_5/moskva_2_4_5.htm

By: susan hayek

susan hayek — Fri, 11 Jun 2010 02:58:02 +0000

can anyone tell me where to find a manual for the Moskva 5?
I am a rank novice with old camera.

thanks

By: Paul

Paul — Mon, 04 Jan 2010 14:14:58 +0000

You don’t need to use DoF Master as the lens itself has a built-in depth-of-field calculator. That is why the aperture numbers appear on either side of the focus mark. If you are set on, say, f11 just read off the distance between the two f11 markers, that is your DoF at your selected focus distance.

By: Tarmo Virves

Tarmo Virves — Sun, 12 Apr 2009 21:02:05 +0000

parallax problem: take one piece of matt plastic and cover film area with it. bulb your shutter and keep it open. then frame picture and check it from viewfinder. doublecheck all edges and corners. i think that its quite accurate. in viewfinder you have littlebit more room, than the actual framesize is. easy done on the tripod.

By: George Welcher

George Welcher — Sun, 14 Sep 2008 15:34:22 +0000

I think the main source of vibration and shake with moskva cameras has to do with the ridiculous tripod mount “nipple” that protrudes from the bottom of the camera. This prevents the camera from sitting flat on the tripod plate. Many old cameras have this design flaw – both my other folders have it.

I made a simple shim out of a scrap of leather that eliminates or at least minimizes the problem. Cut a piece of leather or other stiff but flexible material about 1/8 inch thick to fit between the camera and tripod. cut a hole in the middle to fit around the tripod mount nipple on the camera. If you use a quick release plate as I do you can leave the plate and shim permanently attached to the camera.

By: Frank Hovie

Frank Hovie — Wed, 27 Feb 2008 02:09:02 +0000

Winding after opening and just before exposing prevents dust from settling on the negative as well, the dust gets rolled into the previous exposed frame. This makes the negatives a lot less spotty.

By: Fred Haeseker

Fred Haeseker — Mon, 05 Nov 2007 22:38:17 +0000

When setting the shutter to the top speed (1/250), which brings into play a very stiff spring, it’s a good idea to hold the body of the shutter in one hand while turning the ring. This keeps the front standard from twisting.